Tyrwhitt: This Season’s Last Epic Hike

The rock archway on Mount Tyrwhitt
The rock archway on Mount Tyrwhitt

Mount Tyrwhitt. Ever since hiking Pocaterra Ridge last year, Paul and I have wanted to conquer Mount Tyrwhitt. From the cirque, the natural rock archway formation on the east ridge of Tyrwhitt is clearly visible. It just looks so cool. As we ascended Pocaterra, we said we’d hike to the top of Tyrwhitt at some point. That ‘some point’ was on Sunday.

View of Mount Tyrwhitt and the archway from the cirque
View of Mount Tyrwhitt and the archway from the cirque

As usual, I was running slightly late. I blame this on the fact that I had to pick up a tall white mocha from Starbucks for Paul. My tardiness certainly had nothing to do with the fact that I also ordered two breakfast sandwiches for myself, a coffee, a sandwich for lunch, and picked up a vitamin water from Safeway. Eventually, we set out on the long drive to Highwood Pass.

Water in Pocaterra cirque
Water in Pocaterra cirque
View from Grizzly col. Mount Tyrwhitt on the left; Pocaterra Ridge in the centre
View from Grizzly col. Mount Tyrwhitt on the left; Pocaterra Ridge in the centre

The late morning was cool and chilly. It was a sign that winter was close by, and so we knew we needed to make the most of the day. Similar to the day before, the larches looked amazing. We began the hike and quickly found ourselves in the basin of Pocaterra cirque. Instead of heading right to Pocacterra Ridge, we veered left and hiked to Grizzly col. The landscape in this area is incredible. I did a quick read in Alan Kane’s Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies and discovered that the col sits on top of the Lewis Overthrust. The fault line runs from Glacier National Park in Montana to Mount Kidd, and this is why there is a sharp divide between ‘gentler shale slopes east of the col versus higher-angled grey limestone on Tyrwhitt’. Huh… learning something new every day.

Ascending Mount Tyrwhitt
Ascending Mount Tyrwhitt
The archway!
The archway!

Once at Grizzly col, it was another 250 m to the summit of Mount Tyrwhitt. The archway is about halfway up, so we kept to the east of the ridge and headed in that direction. This proved to be extremely nerve-wracking! Tyrwhitt is rated as a moderate scramble in the Kane book, and now I know why. The exposure was crazy. There was so much scree and loose rocks to climb. Every step forward was followed by a slight slide down the mountain. And one point, we came to an edge unexpectedly, and a misstep could lead to falling off the ridge. At first we thought we were headed the wrong way, but after consulting the book after the hike, we scrambled the recommended way. We ended up find the archway (thank goodness!), and after a few awesome photos, we continued the challenging ascent to the summit.

A breathtaking view
A breathtaking view
Kananaskis Lakes in the background
Kananaskis Lakes in the background

I know I say this on all mountains, but the views from the top were incredible. In fact, I think it ranks in the top 3 summit views that I’ve experienced in Alberta (Mount Sparrowhawk and Mount Eiffel are the others). The Kananaskis Lakes are in full view; Pocaterra cirque and the ridge lie to the north; and the valley of the Lewis Overthrust seemingly runs forever. It was a huge plus that we hiked in the fall because the colours were amazing. The icing on the cake? An official geocache greeted us at the top of Tyrwhitt. We signed our names and proclaimed that the scramble was worth it for the spectacular views!

Panoramic of the Kananaskis Lakes and Pocterra Ridge
Panoramic of the Kananaskis Lakes and Pocterra Ridge
A geocache!
A geocache!

It was then time for the sometimes painful and sketchy descent. I can recall lots of sliding and screeing. I had a rock crush my hand. Paul rammed his knee into another rock. With every step, the possibility of dislodging rocks and causing a bit of a rock slide was very real. At one point, a large rock was sent flying down the entire mountain. We felt so amateur, because that rock would have killed anyone in its path. It’s a good thing we were the only two climbing Mount Tyrwhitt that day. The scramble gave us a lot of stress and uneasiness :S.

Gorgeous!
Gorgeous!
The brutal descent
The brutal descent

After gaining steady footing again, we stopped to eat a late lunch. We were so frazzled by the scramble that we never paused to eat! So we sat on a few rocks among the trees, chatting about what we had just hiked and conquered. Then we continued onward, happy that we on target to reach the car in 6 hours flat. But then we ran into a problem. Before reaching the small lake, we encountered a group of Rocky Mountain sheep. Five of them, to be exact. They were en route from the rocks on the right of the trail to the forest on the left of the trail. I don’t think Rocky Mountain sheep are bothered by people that much, but these ones were definitely on alert, staying close together and keeping close eyes on us. Those shifty eyes were….. shifty. There was one sheep that looked like the ‘dad’, and he was the first to cross the trail. And then he just stopped. Right on the trail. And these sheep were huge! Paul readied the bear spray just in case. There was a lot of staring going on, and our attempts to stare down that sheep were not working. Once the ‘dad’ disappeared among the trees, we proceeded, but every time we did, he would come back out onto the trail. It was frightening to say the least. This little song and dance carried on for at least 10 minutes until we were joined by some other hikers. Power in numbers! We passed the sheep, very slowly. Their shifty eyes were on us the whole time. What a crazy experience! Between the possibility of bears while getting lost on Tent Ridge the day before, and then having the feeling of almost being charged by sheep with massive horns, it certainly was an eventful weekend.

The shifty eyes of a Rocky Mountain sheep
The shifty eyes of a Rocky Mountain sheep

In total, it took 6 hours and 15 minutes to complete the hike (11:15 am – 5:30 pm). Mount Tyrwhitt is at an elevation of 2874 m. Even though the elevation gain is about 650 m, it was intense because of the scree/slab scramble. We’re so happy to have completed another moderate Kane scramble!

Mount Tyrwhitt: We conquered you!
Mount Tyrwhitt: We conquered you!

I really enjoyed conquering Tyrwhitt with Paul. I can always count on him to hike the big peaks with me, and among all of the ridiculousness and laughter, he’s a safe hiker, a great friend, and I can always trust his judgement. Until the next big hike, Paul. Thanks for another great season filled with epic hikes!

Typical
Typical

Larches from the Tent Ridge Horseshoe

Woah!
Woah!

So this is the time in Rockies when the larch trees are at their most beautiful, turning shades of yellow in the late fall. During this time, many Calgarians will flock to the Larch Valley near Moraine Lake in Lake Louise. I had hiked there in 2010 and it’s spectacular. However, I had heard that two weekends ago, there was a crazy car line up to the Moraine Lake parking lot, where it was a one-in-one-out situation. Rather than attempt to fight the crowds, there were many suitable alternatives for a weekend hike.

One side of the ridge from a clearing
One side of the ridge from a clearing
Tent Ridge Horseshoe
Tent Ridge Horseshoe

On Saturday, Robbie and I ventured out to Kananaskis. We decided we would find a hike that both of us had not completed. After hearing great things about Tent Ridge, we thought, why not do that one? From the Kananaskis Lakes turn off on Highway 40, we headed about 29 km north on the Smith Dorrien – Spray Trail (#742 South) to the Mount Engadine Lodge. The parking area was close to there.

Taking refuge beside a cliff for a quick lunch stop
Taking refuge beside a cliff for a quick lunch stop
Traversing the ridge. I love ridge walks!
Traversing the ridge. I love ridge walks!

After searching for and finding the trailhead, it was a gradual ascent and then a steep slog to the clearing where we would begin climbing the mountain. The views were incredible every step of the way. There’s definitely no need to go to the Larch Valley to see larches! They were yellow and beautiful (though it’s slightly late in the season, so many of the leaves have fallen); there were mountain peaks all around us; and the Spray Lake Reservoir shimmered in the distance. The ridge is shaped like a horseshoe and has three summits, so there was a lot of variety throughout the day, including short sections of scrambling. The exposure wasn’t too bad at all, and it was all worth it to hike in the shadow of such peaks like Mount Smuts (2938 m) and The Fist (2630 m). Hopefully one day I’ll conquer those too…

Looking over the edge. Yikes!
Looking over the edge. Yikes!
I'm happy to be here!
I’m happy to be here!

The descent was an interesting one. We somehow veered off the trail and ended up bushwhacking through dense forest to find it again. We knew we were going in the right direction, but with no clear path, we were nervous! The sun was beginning to set, so it was evening time in bear country… not a comforting thought. I think I may have even seen a bear dig at one point, which freaked me out even more. This hike, more than any other, had constant bear whoops and yells to keep the bears away. We even began running at times to speed things up. I acknowledge that we probably scared ourselves more than anything, but it definitely felt like a situation where show tunes wouldn’t have even helped :S. In the end, we made it to the car alive and well. NBD. What a fantastic day hike!

I have conquered this mountain!
I have conquered this mountain!
View of the Spray Lake Reservoir from the summit
View of the Spray Lake Reservoir from the summit

We were able to ascend the mountain, traverse the ridge, and get back to the car in 5 hours (12:40 pm – 5:40 pm; 11.5 km loop). According to one website I found, the highest point of the ridge is at about 2545 m, and the elevation gain is approximately 830 m (I think that’s cumulative). I don’t hike too many ridges, but I need to start adding more to the list. Hiking up one way and back down a different route is very cool! I should also add more Smith Dorrien peaks to the list. So many peaks. So little time…

Panoramic of the Tent Ridge Horseshoe
Panoramic of the Tent Ridge Horseshoe
View from the summit. Amazing!
View from the summit. Amazing!

The Mushroom Kingdom to Mount Allan

View of the Mushroom Kingdom. Its where Bowser lives

A few Sundays ago, I was itching for something epic. It had been a while since I had completed a long day hike, and with three big hikes coming up for the Big Mountain Challenge, I wanted to try and get a few more hikes in there. Paul and Vanessa were on board as well, and so based on recommendations, we chose to summit Mount Allan via Centennial Ridge Trail. The Centennial Pass to Mount Allan Trail is the highest maintained trail in the Canadian Rockies, so it was a definite “must conquer” on the list.

Hiking the Centennial Trail. Gorgeous views the entire way.

We were up super early Sunday morning and headed to Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. The trailhead is located on Centennial Drive, close to the Nakiska Ski Resort. After getting our gear together, we began the hike. It was 9:15 am. We quickly passed a sign informing us that the Centennial Ridge Trail is closed between April 1 and June 21, as the trail is used by Bighorn Sheep and their newborn lambs. Although we were hiking quite later than mid-June, I would have loved to see little lambs on the trail.  Alas, we did not. Woe is me.

BESTIES!!!… but no reciprocation :o|

The trail is quite gorgeous; there are forests, grassy hillsides with many lovely flowers, and great views all around. The earlier part of the hike is also steep, with a stretch that climbs roughly 700 metres in 2 kilometers! I knew it was going to be an epic hike, but I think I underestimated it. Mosquitoes and black flies were on the offensive as well. I even had a black fly attack me through my shirt, which left a big red mark that was itchy for days! I guess that’s what you get when you’re out in nature. I guess. Once we reached the Olympic Summit and Centennial Pass, we checked out the weather stations and admired the views around us. However, there was much more of the hike left!

Flowers on the trail: an Indian paintbrush (Castilleja)
Admiring the weather station
Looking down at the Nakiska Ski Resort from Centennial Ridge

In the distance, there it was: Mushroom Kingdom. Alright, it probably isn’t called that, and some sites refer to it as a rock garden, but the numerous rocks of many shapes and sizes reminded us of a bunch of mushrooms. From a distance, the rocks were tiny, but in fact, they were huge! Hence, the ‘Kingdom’. Plus Bowser (in the form of a squeaking marmot) lives there, so it had to be called Mushroom Kingdom. We wasted no time… onward!

Mushroom Kingdom on the trail (mid/high point in the photo)
I think this was a baby rock ptarmigan/snow chicken. Cute!

Once we arrived at the Mushroom Kingdom, we were awed by the landscape and the formation of the rocks. We stopped here to eat lunch, since there was still quite a ways to go and we had been hiking for hours at that point. The rocks also provided some much needed shade from the intense sun. I don’t know much about geology, but the rocks were incredible. It’s almost like part of the mountain eroded over many many years and left these spires/monoliths. And the rocks themselves were interesting. They looked blackened, perhaps by lichen, and the spires looked as if they were constructed of marmot skulls. Obviously, they weren’t constructed of marmot skulls, and this statement refers to one of the many jokes that arose during the full day hike.

Hiding among the ‘mushrooms’
The highest maintained hiking trail in the Canadian Rockies
Monoliths of the Mushroom Kingdom
Spires filled with marmot skulls. (Note: there were no marmot skulls)

Once we left the rock garden, it was another 40 minutes or so to the summit of Mount Allan, where the views were magnificent. We could see Sparrowhawk in the background, which still ranks as my favourite/most difficult hike in Alberta so far. But Mount Allan did not disappoint at all. Some ominous clouds began to roll in, but not before we could admire the surroundings and snap a few photos.

Toad, Peach and Goomba at the summit
East view (I think) from Mount Allan
West view (I think) from Mount Allan
A storm cloud moving in? What’s up with that?! I don’t know what I’m doing here.

The descent was just as beautiful, but we were exhausted. The downhill went on forever. And ever. And ever. But the late afternoon sun always seems to cast wonderful shadows on the mountains, so it was a different experience hiking to the Mushroom Kingdom, along the ridge, and back down Centennial Trail to the car park.

Another hour to go on the descent?? Let’s just stop here. Close enough.

So we started the trail at 9:15 am, and we had many rest/snack/lunch stops along the way. It was a tiring hike! And the sun was intense- I actually received quite a burn on my calves (oops, forgot the sunscreen there!). We arrived at the summit at 2:15 pm, a full 5 hours after beginning the hike. After taking in the incredible views, we began our descent at 2:30 and arrived at the car for 6:25 pm. Longest. Day. Ever. At roughly 16 km roundtrip, it was a 9 hour and 10 minute hike! Mount Allan stands at about 2840 metres above sea level, and the elevation gain for the hike is 1360 metres. Time-wise, this has officially been the longest hike I’ve done in Alberta thus far. Will Mount Temple in a few weeks be longer?? As tiring as it was, the thought of Chinese food had us rejuved the entire time. “Rejuved” is a word, right?

Beautiful views from the Centennial Ridge Trail.
Mount Allan- We conquered you!

And just for memories, I have embedded this amazing song by Season 4 American Idol winner Carrie Underwood. Because sometimes, when you’re exhausted on the mountain and don’t know where to turn, you just have to trust in a higher power…

Hiking the Kananaskis Driveway

View of the Kananaskis Lakes

Okay, it’s not really a driveway. And in fact, it’s the hike to the Kananaskis Fire Lookout in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. But since there is a couple living up there, and they own a car, the trail is pretty much a long dirt driveway. And why is it called a Fire Lookout? So that the couple can watch the area for forest fires and alert the appropriate authorities. Sounds important to me!

Pre-hike photo

Friends Paul, Vanessa and I thought it’d be great to head to the mountains right after work. So after a productive day in the office, I gathered my things and we were off. We chose the Kananaskis Fire Lookout based on a recommendation from the info center, even though the girl told us that there were 20 known grizzly bears in the surrounding area. NBD, no big deal. (Truth be told, most definitely not NBD. But we made sure to make lots of noise while hiking). It was a short hike (5:25 pm to 8:15 pm) with an elevation gain of 296 metres, but the views of the Kananaskis valley and lakes were very nice.
At the lookout
Photo from the view point

At the top, we stopped to sign the guest book and sat at a picnic table for dinner. And then it dawned on me: How amazing is it to live in a city like Calgary, where I can work at my desk throughout a Friday, and then be sitting at the top of a mountain in the evening for dinner overlooking the Kananaskis valley… all in the same day?! It’s definitely not something I take for granted :).

Dear Honey Ham Wrap: I will eat you!
Panoramic view from the Kananaskis Fire Lookout

Happy Birthday at Lillian Lake

Pre-hike photo at the Lillian Lake Birthday Hike 🙂

This past weekend was the second annual birthday hike. To be honest, I didn’t even know there was going to be an annual birthday hike! Last year, I coordinated a Nihahi Ridge hike to celebrate a few birthdays- mine, Robin’s, Shari’s and Laura’s. Thanks to Robin this year for his last minute planning and for rounding up the troops! It ended up being quite a success.

Triad of sexy
One of many bridges on the trail

The hike of choice was Lillian and Galatea Lakes Trail, about 30 km south on Highway 40. As with all hikes in the Rockies, it was beautiful. There are many bridges that cross Galatea creek along the way before reaching Lillian Lake. Due to time, we opted not to proceed to Galatea Lake, and instead stopped at Lillian Lake to feast. You see, we eat like royalty on these birthday hikes! Thanks to everyone’s contributions, we had bread, cheese, back bacon and turkey, malbec wine, grapes and cherries, pepperoni sticks, veggies and dip, and of course, birthday cake. There was definitely enough food to go around! We ran into a snag when we forgot a wine opener, but thankfully we were able to use a knife to push the cork into the bottle, and then thanks to Robbie, we used a celery stick as a spout to keep the wine flowing. Genius!

Laura showing off the malbec wine 🙂
Feasting like royalty!
Genius! A celery spout.
Wine for all!

Robin also decided to bring an inflatable raft for the lake. Why had I never thought of this before for any of my other hikes?! It’s quite tranquil to sit on a raft in the middle of a glacial lake. Such a great idea 🙂

Relaxing on Lillian Lake

All in all, the hike was about 5.5 km each way and took about 6 hours (10 am – 4 pm). It didn’t involve anything too strenuous or a scramble at the top, but it was a very enjoyable afternoon with good friends, great conversation, awesome food, and lots of merriment. Happy Birthday everyone, and cheers to another great year!

Cheers! Happy Birthday Everyone 🙂