There’s a part of me that’s a bit disappointed with the amount of hiking I’ve done this year. I guess it’s because I always want to head out to the mountains and sometimes life events happen that prevent this. For example, vertigo… vacations… road trips… gatherings… or just plain laziness, like today. It’s not that I don’t enjoy those things, because I definitely do, but there’s a yearning for the mountains that never goes away.
This is why it was so awesome to head to Ha Ling with Robbie and Jess yesterday and conquer this short climb. The weather was sunny and cloudy but perfect for a hike. We had all been itching to test our legs on the mountain. Now that the summer has started with the completion of Ha Ling, we can look forward to a summer ahead of many more mountain summits. And so today I proclaim: there will be many more summits to come! And my goal this year is to avoid, as best as possible, repeats of hikes. Why? Because there are just so many amazing ones out there!
One important thing we realized? “It’s not worth it if you’re going to die.” I suppose this is common sense. If there’s an activity where certain death is the outcome, it’s probably not worth it. Taking smart risks, on the other hand… well, those usually turn into quite the adventures!
Stats (according to Runkeeper):
Distance: 6.32 km
Duration: 3:53:49, starting at 2:10 pm
Pace: 36:59 min/km
Elevation: 756 m
Mount Tyrwhitt. Ever since hiking Pocaterra Ridge last year, Paul and I have wanted to conquer Mount Tyrwhitt. From the cirque, the natural rock archway formation on the east ridge of Tyrwhitt is clearly visible. It just looks so cool. As we ascended Pocaterra, we said we’d hike to the top of Tyrwhitt at some point. That ‘some point’ was on Sunday.
View of Mount Tyrwhitt and the archway from the cirque
As usual, I was running slightly late. I blame this on the fact that I had to pick up a tall white mocha from Starbucks for Paul. My tardiness certainly had nothing to do with the fact that I also ordered two breakfast sandwiches for myself, a coffee, a sandwich for lunch, and picked up a vitamin water from Safeway. Eventually, we set out on the long drive to Highwood Pass.
Water in Pocaterra cirqueView from Grizzly col. Mount Tyrwhitt on the left; Pocaterra Ridge in the centre
The late morning was cool and chilly. It was a sign that winter was close by, and so we knew we needed to make the most of the day. Similar to the day before, the larches looked amazing. We began the hike and quickly found ourselves in the basin of Pocaterra cirque. Instead of heading right to Pocacterra Ridge, we veered left and hiked to Grizzly col. The landscape in this area is incredible. I did a quick read in Alan Kane’s Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies and discovered that the col sits on top of the Lewis Overthrust. The fault line runs from Glacier National Park in Montana to Mount Kidd, and this is why there is a sharp divide between ‘gentler shale slopes east of the col versus higher-angled grey limestone on Tyrwhitt’. Huh… learning something new every day.
Ascending Mount TyrwhittThe archway!
Once at Grizzly col, it was another 250 m to the summit of Mount Tyrwhitt. The archway is about halfway up, so we kept to the east of the ridge and headed in that direction. This proved to be extremely nerve-wracking! Tyrwhitt is rated as a moderate scramble in the Kane book, and now I know why. The exposure was crazy. There was so much scree and loose rocks to climb. Every step forward was followed by a slight slide down the mountain. And one point, we came to an edge unexpectedly, and a misstep could lead to falling off the ridge. At first we thought we were headed the wrong way, but after consulting the book after the hike, we scrambled the recommended way. We ended up find the archway (thank goodness!), and after a few awesome photos, we continued the challenging ascent to the summit.
A breathtaking viewKananaskis Lakes in the background
I know I say this on all mountains, but the views from the top were incredible. In fact, I think it ranks in the top 3 summit views that I’ve experienced in Alberta (Mount Sparrowhawk and Mount Eiffel are the others). The Kananaskis Lakes are in full view; Pocaterra cirque and the ridge lie to the north; and the valley of the Lewis Overthrust seemingly runs forever. It was a huge plus that we hiked in the fall because the colours were amazing. The icing on the cake? An official geocache greeted us at the top of Tyrwhitt. We signed our names and proclaimed that the scramble was worth it for the spectacular views!
Panoramic of the Kananaskis Lakes and Pocterra RidgeA geocache!
It was then time for the sometimes painful and sketchy descent. I can recall lots of sliding and screeing. I had a rock crush my hand. Paul rammed his knee into another rock. With every step, the possibility of dislodging rocks and causing a bit of a rock slide was very real. At one point, a large rock was sent flying down the entire mountain. We felt so amateur, because that rock would have killed anyone in its path. It’s a good thing we were the only two climbing Mount Tyrwhitt that day. The scramble gave us a lot of stress and uneasiness :S.
Gorgeous!The brutal descent
After gaining steady footing again, we stopped to eat a late lunch. We were so frazzled by the scramble that we never paused to eat! So we sat on a few rocks among the trees, chatting about what we had just hiked and conquered. Then we continued onward, happy that we on target to reach the car in 6 hours flat. But then we ran into a problem. Before reaching the small lake, we encountered a group of Rocky Mountain sheep. Five of them, to be exact. They were en route from the rocks on the right of the trail to the forest on the left of the trail. I don’t think Rocky Mountain sheep are bothered by people that much, but these ones were definitely on alert, staying close together and keeping close eyes on us. Those shifty eyes were….. shifty. There was one sheep that looked like the ‘dad’, and he was the first to cross the trail. And then he just stopped. Right on the trail. And these sheep were huge! Paul readied the bear spray just in case. There was a lot of staring going on, and our attempts to stare down that sheep were not working. Once the ‘dad’ disappeared among the trees, we proceeded, but every time we did, he would come back out onto the trail. It was frightening to say the least. This little song and dance carried on for at least 10 minutes until we were joined by some other hikers. Power in numbers! We passed the sheep, very slowly. Their shifty eyes were on us the whole time. What a crazy experience! Between the possibility of bears while getting lost on Tent Ridge the day before, and then having the feeling of almost being charged by sheep with massive horns, it certainly was an eventful weekend.
The shifty eyes of a Rocky Mountain sheep
In total, it took 6 hours and 15 minutes to complete the hike (11:15 am – 5:30 pm). Mount Tyrwhitt is at an elevation of 2874 m. Even though the elevation gain is about 650 m, it was intense because of the scree/slab scramble. We’re so happy to have completed another moderate Kane scramble!
Mount Tyrwhitt: We conquered you!
I really enjoyed conquering Tyrwhitt with Paul. I can always count on him to hike the big peaks with me, and among all of the ridiculousness and laughter, he’s a safe hiker, a great friend, and I can always trust his judgement. Until the next big hike, Paul. Thanks for another great season filled with epic hikes!
So this is the time in Rockies when the larch trees are at their most beautiful, turning shades of yellow in the late fall. During this time, many Calgarians will flock to the Larch Valley near Moraine Lake in Lake Louise. I had hiked there in 2010 and it’s spectacular. However, I had heard that two weekends ago, there was a crazy car line up to the Moraine Lake parking lot, where it was a one-in-one-out situation. Rather than attempt to fight the crowds, there were many suitable alternatives for a weekend hike.
One side of the ridge from a clearingTent Ridge Horseshoe
On Saturday, Robbie and I ventured out to Kananaskis. We decided we would find a hike that both of us had not completed. After hearing great things about Tent Ridge, we thought, why not do that one? From the Kananaskis Lakes turn off on Highway 40, we headed about 29 km north on the Smith Dorrien – Spray Trail (#742 South) to the Mount Engadine Lodge. The parking area was close to there.
Taking refuge beside a cliff for a quick lunch stopTraversing the ridge. I love ridge walks!
After searching for and finding the trailhead, it was a gradual ascent and then a steep slog to the clearing where we would begin climbing the mountain. The views were incredible every step of the way. There’s definitely no need to go to the Larch Valley to see larches! They were yellow and beautiful (though it’s slightly late in the season, so many of the leaves have fallen); there were mountain peaks all around us; and the Spray Lake Reservoir shimmered in the distance. The ridge is shaped like a horseshoe and has three summits, so there was a lot of variety throughout the day, including short sections of scrambling. The exposure wasn’t too bad at all, and it was all worth it to hike in the shadow of such peaks like Mount Smuts (2938 m) and The Fist (2630 m). Hopefully one day I’ll conquer those too…
Looking over the edge. Yikes!I’m happy to be here!
The descent was an interesting one. We somehow veered off the trail and ended up bushwhacking through dense forest to find it again. We knew we were going in the right direction, but with no clear path, we were nervous! The sun was beginning to set, so it was evening time in bear country… not a comforting thought. I think I may have even seen a bear dig at one point, which freaked me out even more. This hike, more than any other, had constant bear whoops and yells to keep the bears away. We even began running at times to speed things up. I acknowledge that we probably scared ourselves more than anything, but it definitely felt like a situation where show tunes wouldn’t have even helped :S. In the end, we made it to the car alive and well. NBD. What a fantastic day hike!
I have conquered this mountain!View of the Spray Lake Reservoir from the summit
We were able to ascend the mountain, traverse the ridge, and get back to the car in 5 hours (12:40 pm – 5:40 pm; 11.5 km loop). According to one website I found, the highest point of the ridge is at about 2545 m, and the elevation gain is approximately 830 m (I think that’s cumulative). I don’t hike too many ridges, but I need to start adding more to the list. Hiking up one way and back down a different route is very cool! I should also add more Smith Dorrien peaks to the list. So many peaks. So little time…
Panoramic of the Tent Ridge HorseshoeView from the summit. Amazing!
Oh Mount Temple… how have you managed to elude me so?
On Wednesday, when the weather was all clear skies and perfect, we were unable to hike Temple due to bear restrictions. But Mount Temple stood like an incredible beauty. The snow that stood atop the mountain glistened in the sun. Gazing at Temple was as mesmerizing as listening to Beyonce belt out a ballad. But on Sunday, when we were slated to make attempt #2, Temple turned into its alter ego. A fresh snowfall the previous night added a complication to the hike. And the wind was fierce. Sasha Fierce. Would we be able to hike Mount Temple? Or was it untouchable like the unstoppable Sasha Fierce??
What’s that Jeff?? We’re hiking Temple?!?
To backtrack slightly, on Saturday while Dan and I were hiking the Tea House Highline Challenge, I received a call from Jeff from Banff Lake Louise Tourism and The Real Banff. He informed us that we’d be making another go at Mount Temple, and that our guide Joe from www.mountainguide.com would be at the Chateau for 5:30 am. Sweet! Since we needed a 4th, my good friend Paul made his way to Lake Louise, ready with all of his gear, and stoked to tackle Mount Temple!
Ready for Temple with a helmet, ice axe and crampons
The next morning, we left the Moraine Lake parking lot at 6:15 am and hiked through the Larch Valley. It was dark at the start, but as the light began to illuminate our surroundings, we quickly realized that it was a pretty special hiking area. In the fall, the Larch Valley is beautiful, especially when the larches turn a golden colour. Mount Temple, Mount Eiffel and Mount Pinnacle surround Eiffel Lake and the trail up to Sentinel Pass, so it was pretty awesome to see these gigantic peaks around us while we hiked. It snowed the night before, and so the trail was covered with a fresh blanket of snow. I’ve done the hike to Sentinel Pass before, but I’m always amazed how different the mountains look with snow. The clouds were dense the whole time, and it was windy! Mount Temple’s summit was hidden within the clouds. At over 3500 metres, it’s a beast!
Joe assessing the climb to the summit of Mount TemplePaul, Dan and I at Eiffel Lake, before Sentinel PassA snowy hike up Sentinel PassView from Sentinel Pass
The hike up was a bit uneasy due to the snow, but we persevered onward. Once we arrived at Sentinel Pass, the wind was relentless. But looking up at Mount Temple, the wind would be even more fierce. Sasha Fierce. That wind would be unforgiving for the next many many hours if we ascended. So we made the safety call to forgo Mount Temple, yet again. I’m okay with that. Safety first, folks! But Mount Temple has now elluded me a second time. Argh.
After Sentinel Pass, backtracking to start ascending EiffelMount Eiffel (middle) and Mount Pinnacle (right)Mount Eiffel, Mount Pinnacle, and cloud covered Mount TempleA snowy scramble to the summit of Mount Eiffel
The day was not over yet. Instead, we would try to summit nearby Mount Eiffel. Once I looked up at Mount Eiffel from the lake, it seemed like a very acceptable alternative. It was epic! So off we went to make the ascent of snow covered Mount Eiffel. I’ve never hiked a mountain in that much snow before, but it was quite a fun day, and the scrambling near the top was awesome. Don’t get me wrong, we were pretty tired, having just hiked to the top of Sentinel Pass, but once we reached the top, the views were unlike other hikes I’ve done. All of the mountains around us were covered with snow, and Mount Temple loomed just an arm’s length away. By this time, the sun was shining through, and the view of Temple’s summit was now visible. I can only describe it as incredible.
Joe, Paul, me and Dan at the summit of Mount EiffelPanoramic from the summitPanoramic with Mount Temple in viewStopping for photos and lunch at the summit of Mount EiffelAt the summit of Mount Eiffel. Temple totally photobombed my shot!
By the end of they day, we hiked to Sentinel Pass (elevation gain of 732 metres from the trailhead), turned back, bushwhacked to the start of the ridge to Mount Eiffel, reached the summit of Eiffel (3084 metres; elevation gain of 1230 metres from the trailhead), and navigated back through the Larch Valley as the snow melted. It was a very long hiking day of 10 hours. Despite the slips and wind and cold, it was most definitely worth every step!
“Gentlemen, we have conquered Mount Eiffel”Making the long and slippery descentBack at beautiful Moraine Lake after 10 hours of hiking
But it’s not over, Mount Temple. Mark my words. I can be Sasha Fierce too. You’ve been warned!
And speaking of Beyonce, it’s her birthday today, September 4th. She turns 31!
At the top of Mount Fairview. It will do. Most definitely.
Yesterday when I went to bed, I set my alarm for 4:45 am. I was excited knowing that Mount Temple would be crossed off the list by the end of the day! Why did we need to wake up so early? Well, Mount Temple is the highest peak in the Lake Louise area. It’s also the most accessible peak greater than 11,000 ft. At a height of 3543 metres, this ultimate scramble to the summit is a task with an elevation gain of 1690 metres from the trailhead. In general, it takes close to 12 hours to complete. Wow.
Bear restriction sign. Can’t we just sing show tunes?
Dan and I got ready quickly and headed down for breakfast. Upon meeting our guide Jason (the same Yamnuska guide from Cascade), we learned that we would not be attempting Mount Temple. Nooooooo!, I thought. The weather was forecasted to be great, and we were so prepared. But alas, in order to hike in the valley where the trailhead for Temple is located, it is required by law to hike in a group of four. Or as the signs read, “Group Access is Mandatory!” Due to some scheduling conflicts, we were only going to be a group of three: Jason, Dan, and myself. Alas, this meant we could not do Temple. *Sigh*. But by now, I’m an expert at combating bears, right? I’ve been preparing for the Big Mountain Challenge for months now. Can’t we should just sing show tunes! I’ll show them…
Early morning sun on the forest and mountains
Being thinky
Jason’s backup plan? Instead of Mount Temple, we would ascend Mount Fairview, which towers above Lake Louise, followed by a traverse to Saddleback Mountain. Okay, so it may not have been as epic as Mount Temple, but this new plan would prove to be incredible. You win this round, Mount Temple. I’ll be back to conquer you!
You win THIS round, Temple! *Shakes fist*
We left the trailhead at 6:45 am as the sun was rising. It was quite serene to be the only hikers on Saddleback Pass. Very quickly we gained elevation and there it was. Mount Temple in the backdrop. Taunting us. Its glacier and snow gleaming at the summit. I began to shake my fist at it. “I’m coming for you!”.
View from the summit of Mount Fairview
For Mount Fairview, we veered to the right of the Saddleback. The ascent was not as challenging as Cascade, but it made for a great hike. The views around were gorgeous, which is expected when hiking in the Lake Louise and Paradise Valley areas. We reached the summit of Mount Fairview (2744 metres) after about 2.5 hours. Mount Victoria and the Victoria Glacier were in the distance, Mount Temple stood tall with the valley below, and Lake Louise appeared as just a tiny pond. If ever in the Lake Louise area, I highly recommend this relatively short hike!
From the summit of Fairview with the Victory Glacier behind us
Dan from Saddleback Mountain
It was then time to head back to the Saddleback and up to Saddleback Mountain. The elevation isn’t nearly as high as Fairview, but the rock scramble and ridge walk are quite fun! After many stops for photos, we headed back to the main trail and back to the Lake Louise parking lot for 2:45 pm, a full 8 hours after beginning the hike. It was quite an early return time, but that just meant we had a nice evening to relax :).
Me and Jason, our Yamnuska guide, and Mount Fairview behind us
So, throughout the day, Dan and I assumed the role of Banff Lake Louise Tourism correspondents, and filmed a few videos explaining what we were doing throughout the day. We’ve had requests to sing show tunes while hiking, which makes sense since that IS how I prepared for the Big Mountain Challenge, right? By singing show tunes to keep the bears away? Since we were in bear country, we did just that. The first one may not be a show tune from a musical, but it seemed to fit, especially after reading the sign that enforced the Group Access requirement. The second… well that’s just fun! Either way, these are a bit painful to watch, ha!